How To Replace A Sub Pump? Easy And Complete Way

How to replace a sub-pump? You should Cut the old sump pump’s power, Remove the sump pump’s connection to the discharge line, connect to the discharge line, measure a new length of PVC pipe, the new sump pump to the pipe, Incorporate the brand-new sump pump into the pit, Check to see if the pump is level, Verify the float switch, Put the discharge line in place, Evaluate the new sump pump. Continue reading, you will learn more details about replacing a sub pump.

What is a Sump Pump Water Alarm?

When the water level in your sump pit is too high, sump pump water alarms let you know. Water alarms are installed in your sump pit similarly to a float switch, and when the water level reaches a risky level, they sound a loud alarm. This gives you the opportunity to act quickly before your property is damaged by a flooded basement. Alarms for water are a useful supplementary security measure. When a pump fails, a water alarm will let you know before a disaster strikes when your basement is about to flood.

A basement water alarm can also be mounted on the sump pit’s rim. The water levels in your sump pit are similarly monitored by these. An ear-piercing alarm sounds as soon as even one millimeter of water touches the alarm. By doing this, you can be alerted to the impending crisis from anywhere in your house and be given enough time to avert it. Additionally, water alarms can be used to keep an eye on drain lines, hot tubs, dishwashers, bathtubs, and other water-using appliances that are prone to flooding or overflowing.

Can I Replace My Own Sump Pump?

Although replacing a sump pump may seem difficult, it is actually a fairly simple project that a homeowner can take on. Make sure the sump pump you are installing is the right size for your sump basin and has enough horsepower to keep your basement dry before you install the new pump. Replace a pump with a newer model of the same brand if it has served you well and reliably in the past. However, if you are replacing a pump that stopped working because it couldn’t handle the amount of water, you might want to consult a plumber to determine whether you need to increase the unit’s size or horsepower.

While installing a sump pump for the first time can be challenging, replacing a sump pump is a relatively straightforward process. Pipes must be installed and laid in a trench for this to happen. Heavy construction is needed to install a sump pump, including jackhammering a hole into your basement floor, cutting a drain pipe through your basement wall, and installing electrical wiring. A qualified professional or a homeowner with extensive knowledge of home plumbing should handle this task. Flooding and significant water damage could occur as a result of an improperly installed sump pump.

Is Replacing a Sump Pump Hard?

Many homeowners can complete a standard sump pump replacement on their own because it is a fairly straightforward project. Of course, there are factors that will make the job more challenging and complex, just like with any DIY project. For instance, the workload multiplies exponentially if a sump pit needs to be dug out in a concrete floor for initial installation.

How to Replace a Sub Pump?

1. Cut the old sump pump’s power. Disconnect the old pump from all electrical sources. Take off any basin covers you may have, and unplug the sump pump.
2. Remove the sump pump’s connection to the discharge line. Examine the PVC pipe that connects the discharge line to the old sump pump. The discharge pipe should be cut with a hacksaw, and you should choose a length of PVC pipe that will allow you some mobility while installing the new pump. The outdated sump pump can now be extracted from the pit.
3. To connect to the discharge line, measure a new length of PVC pipe. The PVC pipe that is attached to the outdated pump should be measured. 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe is used in the majority of applications. To connect to the new sump pump, you should cut a new length of PVC. Keep in mind that you can always cut down a pipe if it is too long. You will need to dig up a variety of adapters to connect the pipes if you cut the pipe too short.
4. the new sump pump to the pipe. On the new sump pump, find the discharge outlet. Utilizing a male adapter, join the pipe segment you just cut to the pump. The male adapter should be attached to the PVC using purple primer and PVC glue to ensure a watertight seal. Allow it to dry.
5. Incorporate the brand-new sump pump into the pit. Ascertain that the pump is not leaning against the basin’s walls, tangled in wiring, or too close to the backup sump pump or its float switch.
6. Check to see if the pump is level. The bottom of the basin shouldn’t be rocking under your pump. Make sure the pump is flush against the concrete floor using a level. To keep the pump level, add shims if necessary.
7. Verify the float switch. Check to see that the float switch is accessible and is positioned at the proper height. The switch will run continuously if it is set too low. The pump won’t operate in time to keep up with the rising waters if the switch is set too high.
8. Put the discharge line in place. Join the new discharge line to the existing pipe. Make sure to connect using a check valve if you removed the check valve while removing your old pump. After the water has been pumped out, this will stop it from returning to the basement. To join the two pieces of pipe together in the absence of that, use a union connector.
9. Evaluate the new sump pump. Bring the new sump pump’s electricity back on. Verify that the pump can handle incoming water by doing so. Five gallons of water should be poured into the pit from a bucket. In this way, the levels of water would be simulated during a storm. Make sure the discharge line is transporting the water to the designated drainage area and that the pump is moving the water.

When You Need a New Sump Pump?

The best way to stop water problems from getting worse is to monitor and maintain your sump pump. You can spot any abnormal functions by being aware of the sounds and cycling speed. Pumps have a built-in on/off cycle. To halt the endless cycling, you might be able to adjust the float switch or unclog a stuck one. It’s time to replace your sump pump if it’s still running nonstop.

Loud noises coming from your sump pump may also indicate that it needs to be replaced. The sump pump is nearing the end of its useful life if its motor is loud. Every seven to ten years, your sump pump needs to be replaced.

A noisy sump pump may also be a sign that it is obstructed. When water is drawn through by the blades, an impeller that is damaged will ratchet. If there is a clog, it will make a screeching noise. A sump pump that is installed incorrectly will be extremely noisy. The discharge line must be as straight as possible for it to function properly. If not, the water will clang as it moves through the different angles.

How to Purchase a New Sump Pump?

Your new sump pump’s horsepower requirements will vary depending on your local climate and environment. Check the horsepower of your old one.

A 1/3-horsepower submersible pump typically serves the average home well, but if your home is in a flood-prone area, you should choose a 1/2-horsepower sump pump. A sump pump motor with insufficient horsepower won’t be able to remove the water quickly or effectively. If the sump pump runs continuously due to a motor with high horsepower, the motor may run out of power before it should.

Sump pumps come in a variety of varieties. Sump pumps on pedestals are made of iron or thermoplastic. In addition to being noisier than a submersible pump, they cannot handle small debris. Adding a custom sump pump cover to block out the noise is a simple solution for this. In terms of horsepower and affordability, pedestal pumps made of plastic offer better value. They don’t, however, last as long as an iron pedestal pump.

Submersible pumps are more silent and are capable of handling and removing any debris. The submersible pump is constructed of either thermoplastic or iron, like the pedestal pump. The longest-lasting pump is one made of cast iron. It can support a much more powerful motor and keep itself cool during high-volume cycles by using the water already in the basin.

In areas where thunderstorms occur frequently, a battery backup sump pump is essential. Storms can result in power outages, which means even your sump pump won’t operate as intended. Your backup pump takes over for your primary pump and is powered by a battery. It can detect when the float switch is too high and gives the pump the support it needs to handle any overflowing.

What Are the Signs You Need to Replace Your Sump Pump?

The best way to determine when to replace your sump pump is to keep an eye on its operation. While some issues can be resolved with upkeep or new parts, other issues call for a new sump pump system because they are more serious. You can determine when the sump pump needs to be replaced by observing the length and regularity of the pump’s cycles, the motor’s operation, and the volume of water in the sump pump’s basin.

The Sump Pump is Running Constantly

If your sump pump keeps running regardless of the weather or the water level in the tank, this is a serious sign that something is wrong with the pump. An excessive amount of strain is put on the sump pump’s motor when it continues to run even after all the water has been drained from the basin. The pump is cooled by the water, so if the pump is operating without any water, it could easily overheat. Your pump will prematurely fail if this issue is left unattended to. An overextended sump pump is a fairly typical issue that can be caused by a number of different things. One of the most frequent causes of an endlessly running pump is improper sump pump size. A pump that is too small for your basin won’t be able to handle the volume of water and will struggle to move the water. A pump that is too big for the basin will have to work harder because the water will fill the basin more quickly and the pump risk running out of fuel.

Another common reason for this occurs is because of a float switch that is stuck in the “on” position. Lightweight flotation switches are made to rise as the sump pit’s water level rises. The pump is activated when the float switch reaches a certain height; it is turned off when the water level drops. The pump can continue to operate even when the float switch gets stuck or tangled. The switch might be caught by debris, wires, or pipes and become engaged. An improperly installed sump pump could shift in the basin, pressing the switch up against the pit wall and starting a never-ending cycle. It’s possible for the switch to break, stop working, or get caught on the basin’s sides. Checking the float switch should come first if the pump is running continuously.

Your sump pump drains water from the basement and directs it towards a drainage area via a discharge line that rises above the sump pump pit. This discharge line should be equipped with a check valve, a fitting that prevents water from flowing back down the pipe into the pit. The water pumped out of the pit will cascade back down if the check valve has malfunctioned, and your pump will become stuck pumping the same water repeatedly up the line. Check your check valve if your pump is operating continuously.

If the check valve is working and the float switch is not jammed in an “on” position, there could be other factors influencing the perpetual cycle. Your sump pump may be receiving continuous water flow from a broken underground water pipe. Your home’s foundation may become unstable as a result of subterranean flooding, which also seriously harms your house. It’s also possible for your sump pump to be constantly flooded if your house was built in an area with a high water table or too far below the water table line. There isn’t much you can do about it, so if your house was built somewhere where constant flooding is to be expected, get in touch with a plumber so they can evaluate the situation and develop a drainage plan that is specifically tailored to your needs. For the sump pit to keep up with the incoming water, you might need to raise it or add another pump. You will need to replace your pump more frequently if your house is submerged in water.

The Sump Pump is Cycling Erratically

A bad sign that your pump needs to be replaced is when it cycles infrequently or takes too long to drain the water from the basin. A failed check valve is frequently visible in a pump that continuously experiences bursts of activity. In order to keep the pump from having to repeatedly pump the same water, the water being displaced from the sump pit isn’t making it out of the discharge line. Loose wiring can cause your pump to cut off for no apparent reason. Turn off the power to the pump and disconnect it if it stops working for no apparent reason. Verify the wiring to make sure all the required connections have been made and that there are no dangling wires. The pump can also be turned off by an electrical system that has shorted out.

If your pump is turning on and off frequently, your float valve may be too low. The pump will continuously cycle on and off if the float valve is set to activate when there are only a few inches of water in the basin. The frequency of these cycles will overwork your pump and cause the motor to burn out too soon.

A pump that takes too long to empty out the basin indicates your pump does not have enough horsepower to fulfill its job. The horsepower needed from your pump depends on the amount of water it will have to move over a given distance as well as the volume of water it will have to handle. In the event of significant rainfall and flooding, your pump is very likely to malfunction if it cannot keep up with the water flow under normal circumstances. Additionally, the pump will be exhausted and at a much higher risk of failing early due to the motor’s constant stress. Your plumbing may need a high-horsepower pump, even if you do not live very far below the water table. The pump will require more horsepower to complete the task if the water has to travel over a significant distance through a complicated system of angled pipes.

The Sump Pump is Old.

Many homeowners wait until it’s too late to replace their sump pumps, despite the fact that it may seem obvious that an older pump is more likely to fail than a new one. If the pump has consistently performed well, you might have forgotten how long it has been there and delayed routine maintenance. No matter how well it performs, if your pump is close to ten years old, it is not worth the risk of failure. After ten years of use, the pump’s effectiveness will decline, the parts will begin to deteriorate, and the pump will inevitably fail. Compared to remodeling a wet basement, replacing a pump is both cheaper and simpler.

The fact that many older sump pumps are less effective and more likely to experience issues is also important to note. For protection against debris entering the pump and harming the impeller, most more recent sump pumps have screened top inlets. They are impact- and corrosion-resistant and made of sturdy stainless steel. It makes sense (and is ultimately less expensive) to replace the pump entirely rather than maintain an old piece of equipment if your older model is rusted, jamming-prone and covered in rust.

The Sump Pump is Clogging

Over time, grit will inevitably accumulate in an exposed sump pump basin. This may result in jammed impeller fan blades. The pump inlet and discharge line may become clogged if the water is heavily contaminated with sediment and debris. The flood water will rush back down the pipe and up into your basement if the discharge line is blocked. Any small gravel, loose silt, or dirt will be sucked up by the pump and reduce efficiency. The pump will turn on but have trouble draining any water from the basin when it is clogged with debris. Debris can also jam the float switch, keeping it stuck in the on position and draining the motor.

Eliminating the source of incoming debris is the best way to prevent your pump from clogging. Securing the sump pump basin with an airtight lid or grate will prevent stray leaves, sticks, and small animals from falling down the pit. Additionally, it will safeguard the pump from objects in your basement (such as tennis balls, nails, screws, and tools) rolling into the pit and breaking it. If the sump pump receives water from a downspout, installing a screen to catch debris will prevent the pump from clogging. Bacterial iron, also known as iron ochre, is a gelatinous, slimy contaminant present in many wells and groundwater supplies. This oxidized ferric iron has formed a thick orange sludge that will clog many household appliances, including your sump pump. Your well water may need to be shock chlorinated in order to remove bacterial iron from your water supply.

The Sump Pump is Making Loud Noises

A serious sign that your sump pump needs repair is when it starts to make loud gurgling, clanging, or rattling noises. Although some noise from a pump is expected as it forces water through the discharge pipe and up to the surface, your pump shouldn’t ever be howling at you from the basement. Sump pumps of a higher caliber typically produce less noise when in use. Older sump pumps are frequently louder, especially ones made of PVC or plastic.

A sump pump with an unusually loud motor indicates that the motor is reaching the end of its life. It’s time to replace your entire system if it still uses an old plastic pump. Upgrade to a cast-iron, self-lubricating pump. Since they need less frequent maintenance, these pumps are more dependable. Additionally, cast-iron pumps are less likely to overheat, extending the life of the pump. If your pump is more recent, you only need to replace the failing motor rather than the entire pump. Pedestal sump pumps have motors that are positioned around the basin, and tubing connects them to the pump inside the basin. These pumps are louder but also tend to last longer because they aren’t submerged. They may produce a sound that echoes throughout your basement. Although they do not last as long, submersible sump pumps that are submerged in water are more efficient at preventing basement flooding. They also produce less noise, and an airtight lid can be placed on the basin. This will contain the noise and cover up the sound of the pump operating.

A damaged impeller will rattle as the fan blades suck water out of the basin and into the pump. If the impeller is clogged, you might hear grinding and screeching when the pump is running. Gurgling noises usually come from standard check valves. The amount of noise the water makes as it flows through the discharge pipe will be decreased by swapping these out for spring-loaded valves. The flow of water through spring-loaded check valves is more controlled and evenly distributed because they don’t rely on gravity to actuate.

An improperly installed pump can also make quite a bit of noise. The sump pump’s discharge line should be as straight as you can make it. It is much more likely that the water will make loud, clanging noises if it must make numerous angles as it leaves the pit. A plumber can reroute the pipes leaving your sump pit, removing joints and giving the water a smoother exit. Insulating the pipes is another way to reduce the noise that the water makes.

Do I Need a Back-up Sump Pump?

In the event that your power goes out in the middle of a severe storm, a backup pump will shield you from costly repairs and damage. When your primary sump pump stops operating, backup sump pumps detect the problem. The backup pump then takes over, expelling the incoming water. Any home that uses a sump pump to prevent flooding would be extremely wise to upgrade with a backup unit. Power outages can make your sump pump ineffective against rushing waters, even if it is brand new and in excellent condition. They serve as cheap insurance against the enormous loss that comes with flooding.

Battery power typically powers backup sump pumps. Additionally to your main sump pump, they are installed. When a power outage renders your sump pump inoperable, their battery-powered performance enables them to start operating. The backup sump pump’s float switch is placed just above the float switch on your primary pump. This makes it possible for the backup sump pump to detect when water levels have risen above the desired level and turn on. Back-up pumps can help in times of severe flooding in addition to preventing damage to your house in the event of a pump failure. In the event of major storms, your primary pump might be unable to handle the water volume. The backup sump pump can offer additional relief to the primary sump pump if the water level rises high enough to activate it.

Another choice is to connect a backup battery directly to your current sump pump. You can wire a backup battery into your main sump pump and mount it on the basement wall. The pump will draw energy from the battery if your home’s power goes out, continuing to operate even then. If you choose to install the backup battery right next to the pump, make sure you regularly check the battery’s life and replace it as necessary. To keep their basement dry even when the power goes out, some people will also wire the sump pump directly to a power generator.

However, it is important to note that backup sump pumps are intended for emergency use only. They should never be used in place of your actual sump pump. You can expect a backup sump pump to run continuously for anywhere between 5-7 hours. The battery-operated backup pump can be used for at least 24 hours if the runtime is intermittent.

How Often Do I Need to Replace My Sump Pump?

On average, sump pumps need to be replaced every 7 to 10 years. A sump pump that is more than that old would need to be repaired, which would cost about the same as a replacement but would yield much lower returns. The quantity of water your sump pump must move, how frequently it is used, and how long each cycle lasts will all affect how long it lasts. Regularly cleaning the pump and making sure it is not overworking itself by running continuously will help to extend the life of your sump pump. In the event that you are unsure of the age or condition of your sump pump, you should probably replace it or, at the very least, have a plumber come out to check, maintain, and clean the pump.

Although some warranties do go up to five years, the majority of sump pumps only have one to three years of coverage. The need to replace the pump is less urgent if your pump is still operating properly, your warranty is about to expire, and the season is dry. Indeed, a lot of sump pumps last several years past the end of their warranties. However, it makes sense to replace your sump pump before a particularly rainy season if it is still under warranty and you know you will soon enter one. After all, it is much less expensive to replace your pump than to deal with the devastating costs of a flooded basement. Even though a sump pump has a ten-year lifespan, that doesn’t mean you should wait to replace it until it is about to break down.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Sump Pump?

You can finish the job yourself and save $200 to $300 by replacing your own sump pump. While some are as cheap as $75, most residential submersible sump pumps cost between $150 and $200. Only the new PVC pipe, primer, glue, and any new fittings and adapters needed to join the pump to the discharge pipe will be extra costs. The price of installation will probably increase by at least twice if you hire a plumber. You can perform this home repair yourself and save a ton of money because sump pump replacement is relatively simple. After installation is complete, test the pump and backup pump to ensure that the seals are watertight. The last thing you want is a wet basement as a result of rushing the sump pump replacement. It is always wiser to be safe and call a certified plumber if you have any doubts about your plumbing skills.

Conclusion on Replacing a Sub Pump

You want the sump pump in your home to be operating so that rainwater does not enter your basement or crawl space. If your sump pump is failing and you need to replace it, it’s a DIY job you can handle yourself.

Even if you have professionally installed a quality product, a sump pump should be replaced every 7-10 years. Your sump pump gathers extra water from drains and directs it away from the house. It is typically situated in a basin on the basement floor.